Dandelion Blog

The Power of Retinol

By Dawn Morris, MS, APN, FNP-C  ·  April 21, 2020

Second only to daily use of sunscreen, retinol is the most recommended topical agent in any skincare regimen. I have long told my patients that retinol is the anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, anti-pigment serum of our time. This powerhouse ingredient has been included in advanced skincare products since the 1960s -- and for good reason: it actually works, and the science proves it. Retinols have more clinical evidence behind them than any other topical skincare ingredient and are FDA-approved for the treatment of acne and fine lines and wrinkles.

How Retinol Works

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A and work deep down at the cellular level. When consistently applied topically, they exfoliate the skin, increase cell turnover, help skin cells mature normally, clear out pores, improve blood circulation to the skin, suppress hyperpigmentation, and stimulate collagen production.

Despite being remarkable, retinols can cause irritation when first introduced into a skincare routine. Typical side effects include redness, skin peeling, tenderness, and sensitivity to the sun. To minimize this, start with a low concentration every other night -- or every third night -- and work up to nightly use over several weeks. Include a moisturizer like hyaluronic acid in your regimen, and use sunscreen every day. Once your skin is acclimated, you can increase the concentration.

Prescription vs. Over-the-Counter

Tretinoin (Retin-A) is the most potent retinoid and requires a prescription -- and yes, Dandelion offers prescriptions for tretinoin. That said, prescription-strength is generally not the best starting point because its higher concentration increases the risk of side effects and it is more expensive. Over-the-counter retinols are more accessible, but concentrations may not be clearly defined and the formulation may leave the active ingredient less effective.

When to Start -- and When to Skip

The best age to begin retinol is around 25, but it is never too late to start. Consistent, continued use is necessary to see all the benefits -- retinol works slowly, over several months to a year, because it operates at the cellular level. Plan to use it throughout your lifetime, but skip during pregnancy and for a few weeks before or after aggressive skin treatments like chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser treatments.

Retinol, like sunscreen, is a commitment you make to your skin -- and one you will not regret.